Behind The Seams

Ramblings of a sewing fanatic

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Location: Fashion Hell, Florida, United States

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Coverstitching over serged seams

Coverhemming over a bulky serged seam is easy! I've been using this method for years. Don't be afraid to clip close to the seamline - I haven't lost a seam yet. :-)

Before turning up the hem, clip to the seamline at the foldline.

Then, turn the hem seam allowance in the opposite direction of the garment seam allowance before turning up the hem.

This will give you a nice smooth seam to stitch over.

Best of all, you won't have all of those tiny, crooked stitches on either side of the seamline!


Blogger Phyllis said...

Great idea Gigi! Sometiems the most brilliant solutions are the sismple ones.

9:51 AM  
Blogger Lisa Laree said...

*Smacking Forehead*
I've been turning the seam allownces like that for a long time, but I never thought I could clip them to avoid the whole lumpy twist (which was still better than the lumpy-all-seams-in-one-direction).

I will clip from now on...why didn't I think of that??

thanks, Gigi!

11:00 AM  
Blogger Lori said...

Great idea and yes, it'simple. So simple I never thought of it! I've been wrestling with ways to avoid the lumpy seam and the horrid stitching that results when you go over the bump. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

6:25 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

What a brilliant technique. I tried it today, and it worked great. I was actually having fun doing a coverstitch! Thanks, Gigi. You've earned mega brownie points with this one!

11:16 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for this tip, gives great results!

Take a look at this site, it is just starting (beta) and looks like it is going to be great:


Maybe you could post this how-to there.

5:28 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

WOW -- Thank you SOOOOO MUCH!!!!! Please WRITE A BOOK with more. I bought a new coverstitch machine for a sick amount of money, the dealer I bought from doesn't do much garment sewing and isn't much help, and the only serger reference books I can find just say "Some TOL models have a coverstitch. It looks like this (photo). If you don't have a coverstitch, here are alternate hemming methods..." I know I'm not the only one out there frustrated that I can't find enough good information on how to use my machine's capabilities. Thanks for sharing your wisdom online.

8:42 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

vworks like a charm. I just bought a coverstitch machine and I had trouble with skipped stitches when stitching over the seam lines. I tried this and it worked. thank you.

2:47 PM  
Blogger Nana said...

Please, please do write a book. I have a beautiful BLCS machine with many of the generic accessory binders, fellers, etc, but with no experience in really using these, I default to my sewing machine. I'd love to see a project book that details how to use the CS machine methods for construction. Methods & techniques in using accessories ... please please. I'm eager to start making this machine my work horse in the sewing room!

9:24 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

Thanks for this tip - I have been battling with this hem on a princess stlye top all day - all those seams and all those wavy lines over them!!

3:30 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I love it ! Very creative ! That's actually really cool Thanks.

1:24 PM  
Anonymous Rebecca Grace said...

Thank you for this tip! I have bought every serger book I can find, as well as all the workbooks and serger technique reference books from Bernina, but still I'm frustrated that I can't find a good reference ANYWHERE about using the coverstitch. Of course the little samples we made in mastery class look nice; they are just little rectangle swatches of fabrics with no seams to stitch over!! So thanks for the clipping tip. I'm printing this out and stapling it into my serger manual. Now if I can only figure out why the darned thing keeps skipping stitches...

3:26 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Wow! As others have said, I have been struggling with this and you have hit upon the exact fix. I do use my bump jumper tool, which helps, but this will be magic.

Skipping stitches is the next thing to tackle.

10:58 AM  
Blogger Mickey said...

What a great idea. Thank you!!!!

11:04 AM  
Anonymous Caroline said...

A more technical question - when you're cutting into your seam like that, are you making sure not to nip your bottom looper thread? Because that thread forms the left row of stitching and if stretched the seam will unravel - eventually.

I do a *lot* of work with a serger in my studio, so this post got me thinking. It'd be best to clip this seam without clipping any looper threads. Can't get around clipping the right needle thread, but no matter.

1:14 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I added one bit -- I used a small strip of steam-a-seam lite to secure the seam flat. You don't have to iron it for this purpose.

11:50 AM  
Anonymous Joan said...

I added a small refinement: I secured the seams by using a small strip of steam-a-seam lite at the hem fold line. You don’t even have to iron it. Made them lay nice and flat.

11:56 AM  
Anonymous Joan said...

oops. sorry about the double post

11:58 AM  
Blogger Tennjenny said...

that is pretty doggone smart. Thanks for sharing!

10:09 PM  
Blogger Clarice said...

Like Nan said : please write a book. I also have the BLCS2 and no assistance.
Thany you.

10:13 AM  

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